징크피씨에이 · 전성분 · Living ingredient passport

Zinc PCA

A multifunctional zinc salt of L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (L-PCA) that regulates sebum production by inhibiting 5-alpha reductase, fights acne-causing C. acnes bacteria, and deeply hydrates the skin as a natural moisturizing factor.

GentlenessGentle — four of fiveEvidenceIndicativeTopical

INCI: ZINC PCA

Also called Zinc Pyrrolidone Carboxylate · Zinc L-PCA · Zinc Salt of L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid

Early-stage page

This ingredient page is still early. We're actively researching before it's ready to stand fully on its own — check back as more sections are verified.

The short answer

Four lines, each compressed from the section it links to. Every line carries the sources of the claim it compresses.

What it does
Antimicrobial Action Against C. acnes and Malassezia
Topical
Source1
See the evidence
Where it goes
serum, toner, or moisturizer step · day and night
See how to use it
What shows, and when
14 days: Visible reduction in T-zone oiliness, reduced pore congestion, and fewer active inflammatory redness spots.
Source1
See the timeline

How to use it

Where it sits in the seven-step ladder, and the record's own fields for the habit.

아침DayDay: used

저녁NightNight: used

day and night

Cleanser클렌저

Toner토너 sits here

Essence에센스

Serum세럼 sits here

Eye cream아이크림

Moisturizer크림 sits here

Sunscreen자외선차단제

Filled steps are where Zinc PCA commonly appears. No product is recommended.

Everything here comes from the sources below. None of it is a product recommendation.

Time of day: day and night
Where it sits: serum, toner, or moisturizer step
Starting frequency: daily
Amount: few drops or pea-sized amount
Application: Apply evenly to clean, dry skin after cleansing or toning. Focus on oily areas (T-zone) or blemish-prone zones. Pat gently until absorbed.
Storage: Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Ensure container is tightly closed as pure Zinc PCA powder is water-soluble.

Plays well with / keep apart

One card per pair. Where the partner has its own passport, the name links to it.

Do layer it with

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)

Creates a K-beauty pairing for blemish and oil control, with Niacinamide stabilizing barrier lipid production and blocking melanosomes while Zinc PCA fights C. acnes.

Read the passport

Source4

Salicylic Acid (BHA)

Salicylic acid lipophilically exfoliates inside the pore lining while Zinc PCA calms bacterial inflammation.

What to expect, and when

The record's own timeline. Each step keeps the source of the study it came from.

Immediate
Instant skin hydration and reduction in surface oiliness and shine.
14 days
Visible reduction in T-zone oiliness, reduced pore congestion, and fewer active inflammatory redness spots.
Source1

Is this safe for me

Everything the record says about suitability, consolidated. Pause-first comes first.

Before you start

Exceptionally well tolerated, but high concentrations or excessive use on dry skin types can cause mild tightness or dryness.

Best match

oily skin

acne-prone skin · congested pores · seborrheic dermatitis · scalp oiliness and dandruff

Routine

serum, toner, or moisturizer step

Pregnancy and breastfeeding

Not medical advice · ask your own clinician

Pregnancy. A 2011 dermatology review of skin-care product safety in pregnancy names hydroquinone (high systemic absorption) and tretinoin (evidence controversial) as the actives of concern, and states that most other topical skin-care products act locally and produce minimal systemic absorption; Zinc PCA is not named among the flagged concerns 5. This is general topical-product reasoning rather than an ingredient-specific safety trial. If you are pregnant, ask your doctor before use.

Breastfeeding. Topical application is applied locally with minimal expected systemic absorption; no ingredient-specific breastfeeding safety trial was located. As a general precaution common to topical actives, avoid applying directly to the breast or nipple area, since incidental transfer to a nursing infant has not been studied for this ingredient. If you are breastfeeding, ask your doctor before use.

Expected versus unacceptable reactions
Common, and it usually settles	Stop using it
A slight, refreshing, non-stinging sensation; helps balance surface oiliness without peeling or redness.	persistent dryness
	intense skin tightness
	localized redness or rash

Allergen history

A dedicated search of the peer-reviewed literature (PubMed) for Zinc PCA / zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate allergic contact dermatitis, contact allergy, sensitization, and contraindication case reports found none. This is consistent with, though not proven by, the ingredient's own clinical trial record: both verified clinical sources report zero local side effects within their own trial populations 1,4.

Who should not use it

Not yet researched

Research in progress — check back soon. How we verify

What it will not do

The 5-alpha-reductase inhibition and 28-day clinical sebum reduction achieved with leave-on 1.0% Zinc PCA serums cannot be directly assumed for quick rinse-off cleansers due to minimal skin contact time.
The antimicrobial and seboregulating efficacy of topical Zinc PCA cannot be equated to oral zinc supplement therapy, which acts through systemic immune and hormonal pathways.
In-vitro MMP-1 suppression and collagen upregulation in human dermal fibroblasts indicate promising anti-photoaging properties, but do not replace daily broad-spectrum sunscreens.

The evidence

One card per claim. Concentration, form, population and limitation sit with it, always visible.

Grade legend

Indicative
Limited
Moderate
Strong

Antimicrobial Action Against C. acnes and Malassezia

Indicative

Inhibits the proliferation of acne-causing Cutibacterium acnes and Malassezia yeast, reducing inflammatory breakouts and seborrheic dermatitis lesions.1

Tested concentration: 0.1% to 1.0%
Which form: Pure Zinc PCA
Population and duration: 20 patients with facial seborrheic dermatitis treated twice daily for 60 days, supported by in-vitro bacterial MIC assays
Limitation: Best used as a supportive antibacterial and seboregulating active rather than a high-potency prescription antibiotic.

Inhibition of UVA-Induced MMP-1 and Collagen Synthesis Enhancement

Indicative

Inhibits UVA-induced production of collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) in dermal fibroblasts and promotes type I collagen synthesis.2

Tested concentration: 0.1 mM to 1.0 mM
Which form: Pure Zinc PCA
Population and duration: In-vitro human skin fibroblast cell models irradiated with UVA light
Limitation: Demonstrated in vitro in cultured human dermal fibroblasts; clinical in-vivo anti-photoaging trials are supportive but less extensive than for topical retinoids.

Open

Large-scale, multi-center, randomized double-blind human clinical trials evaluating pure 1.0% Zinc PCA as a standalone leave-on monotherapy (without Niacinamide or piroctone olamine) specifically measuring facial sebum excretion rates and pore size over 12 weeks.

Open

The research packet's headline sebum-regulation claim (5-alpha-reductase inhibition and 28-day in-vivo sebum reduction) rests on a single flagship source whose cited PMID does not correspond to any real paper matching that title or finding -- the cited PMID actually belongs to a different, unrelated in-vitro UVA-photoaging study this record separately cites for a different, unrelated claim. This record does not map that claim, and does not map the mechanism citation, timeline milestone, or FAQ text that depended on it.

How we verify

Questions & related

Common questions · 자주 묻는 질문

What is Zinc PCA and how does it help oily, acne-prone skin?

Zinc PCA is a specialized organic zinc salt that combines elemental zinc with pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA). Zinc inhibits the enzyme 5-alpha-reductase to control excess oil production and fights acne-causing C. acnes bacteria, while PCA is a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) that hydrates the skin without clogging pores. 3

Can Zinc PCA be used with Niacinamide or Vitamin C?

Yes. Zinc PCA pairs well with Niacinamide (a classic 10% Niacinamide + 1% Zinc PCA combination) to refine pores and control shine. It is also compatible with Vitamin C, where Zinc PCA has been shown in-vitro to upregulate ascorbic acid transporters in fibroblasts to support collagen synthesis. 2,4

The clinical recordHow it works · Forms · Manufacturing · Regulations · Study ledger · Gaps · Sources

How it works

Zinc PCA exerts a dual-action mechanism: the zinc ion competitively inhibits 5-alpha reductase, reducing DHT-driven sebaceous oil secretion 3, and disrupts bacterial cell membranes of C. acnes and Malassezia, while the PCA (pyrrolidone carboxylic acid) moiety acts as an essential Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) to bind water in the stratum corneum.

5-Alpha Reductase Inhibition and Sebum Suppression
Inhibits 5-alpha-reductase, preventing the enzymatic conversion of testosterone to dihydrotestosterone (DHT) at the sebaceous gland, directly slowing oil production.
What that rests on: in-vitro biochemical enzyme assay
Source3
Antimicrobial and Anti-Inflammatory Membrane Disruption
Disrupts cell membrane integrity of Cutibacterium acnes and Malassezia furfur, while suppressing AP-1 activation and pro-inflammatory cytokine release.
What that rests on: in-vitro MIC and clinical trial evaluation
Sources1,4
MMP-1 Suppression and Collagen Enhancement
Suppresses UVA-induced AP-1 transcription, blocking MMP-1 collagenase expression and promoting type I collagen synthesis in dermal fibroblasts.
What that rests on: in-vitro human fibroblast cell assay
Source2

Reading the label

Find this name: 징크피씨에이 (Zinc PCA) — a multifunctional zinc salt that regulates sebum, fights acne-causing bacteria, and hydrates the skin as a natural moisturizing factor.
Terms that may mislead: It is not on the MFDS publicly notified functional list, so brands co-dose it with Niacinamide 2%-5% or Adenosine 0.04% for simplified functional cosmetic notifications.
Judge production transparency: Manufacturers provide certificates of analysis showing purity, elemental zinc content, heavy metals, pH, and microbiological limits.

Compare the forms
Attribute	Pure Zinc PCA
Official INCI	ZINC PCA
Where it comes from	Synthetic reaction of vegetable-derived L-PCA with zinc oxide
How it is made	Synthesized by reacting vegetable-derived L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (produced from beet molasses) with high-purity zinc oxide in water, followed by crystallization and drying to yield a water-soluble white powder.

How it is actually made

Origin regions: France, China, South Korea, Germany, Japan
Synthesized by reacting vegetable-derived L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (derived from fermented beet molasses or glutamate) with zinc oxide or zinc carbonate in aqueous solution, followed by purification, filtration, crystallization, and vacuum drying.
Potency is controlled by HPLC or complexometric titration, ensuring >= 98.0% Zinc PCA purity with elemental zinc content maintained strictly between 14.0% and 15.5%.
A stable, highly bioavailable water-soluble zinc salt that avoids the gritty feel of inorganic zinc oxide.
Manufacturers provide certificates of analysis showing purity, elemental zinc content, heavy metals, pH, and microbiological limits.

Where the ceiling is set

European Union

The rule: EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009
What it allows: Not one of the four zinc salts named in Annex III's restricted-substances entry 24 (which covers only zinc acetate, zinc chloride, zinc gluconate, and zinc glutamate, each capped at 1% as zinc). Listed in the CosIng database as a Humectant and Skin Conditioning Agent -- a function listing, not a regulatory approval.

South Korea

The rule: Ministry of Food and Drug Safety (MFDS) Cosmetics Safety Standards
What it allows: Not found on any MFDS restricted-ingredient list. It is not on the MFDS publicly notified functional list, so brands co-dose it with Niacinamide 2%-5% or Adenosine 0.04% for simplified functional cosmetic notifications.

What the evidence rests on

Study records

Open-label clinical and instrumental trial2019

Clinical and instrumental evaluation of a new topical non-corticosteroid antifungal/anti-inflammatory/antiseborrheic combination cream for the treatment of mild-to-moderate facial seborrheic dermatitis

Twice-daily application for 60 days in 20 subjects with facial seborrheic dermatitis significantly decreased erythema, scaling, pruritus, and Malassezia-driven inflammation, with an Investigator Global Assessment (IGA) improvement in 90% of patients.

Where it falls shortTested within a multi-active formula containing piroctone olamine and stearyl glycyrrhetinate, meaning Zinc PCA acted as a synergistic co-active rather than a monotherapy.

Source1

In-vitro cellular assay and protein analysis2011

Zinc l-pyrrolidone carboxylate inhibits the UVA-induced production of matrix metalloproteinase-1 by in vitro cultured skin fibroblasts, whereas it enhances their collagen synthesis

Zinc PCA suppressed UVA-induced production of MMP-1 in dermal fibroblasts in a concentration-dependent manner, while simultaneously enhancing type I collagen synthesis and upregulating ascorbic acid transport.

Where it falls shortEvaluated strictly in vitro on cultured human dermal fibroblasts; clinical in-vivo photoaging studies are needed to confirm anti-wrinkle magnitude.

Source2

In-vitro biochemical enzyme inhibition assay1988

Inhibition of 5 alpha-reductase activity in human skin by zinc and azelaic acid

Zinc ions demonstrated potent inhibition of 5-alpha-reductase activity in human skin homogenates, completely blocking the conversion of testosterone to dihydrotestosterone (DHT) at sufficient concentrations.

Where it falls shortTested in vitro using human skin homogenates rather than intact living stratum corneum, and on zinc salts generically rather than Zinc PCA specifically.

Source3

Randomized double-blind placebo-controlled trial2020

Efficacy and Tolerability of Topical Nicotinamide Plus Antibacterial Adhesive Agents and Zinc-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid Versus Placebo as an Adjuvant Treatment for Moderate Acne Vulgaris

Adjuvant treatment with topical Nicotinamide and Zinc PCA significantly reduced inflammatory acne lesion counts, stabilized epidermal barrier function, and reduced transepidermal water loss compared to placebo.

Where it falls shortEvaluated as a combination formula with Nicotinamide in moderate acne subjects.