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만델릭애씨드 · 전성분

Mandelic Acid

An aromatic 8-carbon Alpha Hydroxy Acid derived from bitter almonds or synthetic synthesis. Featuring a larger molecular weight (152.15 g/mol) and lipophilic aromatic ring, mandelic acid penetrates the stratum corneum slowly and uniformly, offering gentle epidermal exfoliation, anti-acne antibacterial action, and pigmentation clearance with minimal irritation risk on sensitive or dark skin tones.

GentlenessGentlefour of fiveEvidenceIndicativeTopical
INCI
MANDELIC ACID

Also called 2-Hydroxy-2-phenylacetic Acid · Amygdalic Acid · Phenylglycolic Acid · DL-Mandelic Acid

Early-stage page

This ingredient page is still early. We're actively researching before it's ready to stand fully on its own — check back as more sections are verified.

The short answer

Four lines, each compressed from the section it links to. Every line carries the sources of the claim it compresses.

  • What it does

    Facial Skin Viscoelasticity, Firmness, and Elasticity Improvement

    Topical

    Source1

    See the evidence
  • Where it goes

    toner, serum, or chemical peel step · night

    See how to use it
  • What shows, and when

    4 weeks: Measurable increase in skin elasticity and firmness, and initial clearing of mild acne comedones.

    Source1

    See the timeline

How to use it

Where it sits in the seven-step ladder, and the record's own fields for the habit.

아침DayDay: not used
저녁NightNight: used

night

Cleanser클렌저
Toner토너 sits here
Essence에센스
Serum세럼 sits here
Eye cream아이크림
Moisturizer크림
Sunscreen자외선차단제

Filled steps are where Mandelic Acid commonly appears. No product is recommended.

Everything here comes from the sources below. None of it is a product recommendation.

Time of day
night
Where it sits
toner, serum, or chemical peel step
Starting frequency
2-3 times per week to daily as tolerated
Amount
few drops of serum or a coin-sized amount of liquid toner
Application
Apply evenly to clean, dry skin on the face and neck in the evening routine. Pat gently to encourage uniform absorption. Always follow with a soothing moisturizer and apply broad-spectrum daily sunscreen during the morning.
Storage
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and heat. Keep container tightly closed.

Plays well with / keep apart

One card per pair. Where the partner has its own passport, the name links to it.

Do layer it with

Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid replenishes stratum corneum hydration and soothes the skin during chemical exfoliation, offsetting potential AHA dryness.

Read the passport
Centella Asiatica (Cica)

Centella asiatica downregulates pro-inflammatory cytokines and accelerates barrier repair, enhancing skin tolerance during mandelic acid exfoliation.

Read the passport

Separate it from

High-strength Retinoids (Retinol / Retinal)

Simultaneous application of mandelic acid with high-strength retinoids can cause cumulative epidermal barrier stress, leading to redness, peeling, and stinging.

Alternate nights between mandelic acid and retinoids, or use mandelic acid in the morning and retinoid at night as tolerated.

What to expect, and when

The record's own timeline. Each step keeps the source of the study it came from.

  1. Immediate

    Initial smoothing of surface skin roughness, mild tightening, and enhanced skin radiance.

  2. 4 weeks

    Measurable increase in skin elasticity and firmness, and initial clearing of mild acne comedones.

    Source1

  3. 12 weeks

    Significant reduction in active acne lesion scores and visible fading of post-acne hyperpigmentation with a professional combination peel.

    Source2

Is this safe for me

Everything the record says about suitability, consolidated. Pause-first comes first.

Before you start

Significantly gentler than glycolic acid, but can still cause mild tingling or temporary dryness if overused or paired with aggressive physical exfoliants. Daily broad-spectrum sun protection is required.

Best match

sensitive skin

acne-prone skin · hyperpigmentation · post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation · uneven skin texture · aging skin

Routine

toner, serum, or chemical peel step

Pregnancy and breastfeeding

Not medical advice · ask your own clinician

Pregnancy. A 2011 dermatology review of skin-care product safety in pregnancy names hydroquinone (high systemic absorption) and tretinoin (evidence controversial) as the actives of concern, and states that most other topical skin-care products act locally and produce minimal systemic absorption; Mandelic acid is not named among the flagged concerns 4. This is general topical-product reasoning rather than an ingredient-specific safety trial. If you are pregnant, ask your doctor before use.

Breastfeeding. Topical application is applied locally with minimal expected systemic absorption; no ingredient-specific breastfeeding safety trial was located. As a general precaution common to topical actives, avoid applying directly to the breast or nipple area, since incidental transfer to a nursing infant has not been studied for this ingredient. If you are breastfeeding, ask your doctor before use.

Expected versus unacceptable reactions
Common, and it usually settlesStop using it
A mild, temporary tingling sensation upon initial application, followed by gentle, micro-flaking over 3 to 5 days.persistent stinging or burning
intense erythema (redness)
allergic contact dermatitis rash
blistering

Allergen history

Not yet researched

Research in progress — check back soon. How we verify

Who should not use it

Not yet researched

Research in progress — check back soon. How we verify

What it will not do

  • The 25.4% elasticity increase and 74% acne-score reduction demonstrated with a 10% daily cream or a professional combination peel cannot be expected from ultra-low concentration rinse-off cleansers (< 0.5%) due to minimal contact time.
  • The mild, non-stinging nature of mandelic acid on Fitzpatrick skin types IV-VI does not mean it can be combined recklessly with strong retinoids without appropriate barrier recovery intervals.
  • In-vitro antibacterial activity against Cutibacterium acnes does not replace oral or prescription therapy for severe nodulocystic acne.

The evidence

One card per claim. Concentration, form, population and limitation sit with it, always visible.

Grade legend
  • Indicative
  • Limited
  • Moderate
  • Strong

Facial Skin Viscoelasticity, Firmness, and Elasticity Improvement

Indicative

Significantly increases lower eyelid and facial skin elasticity by 25.4% and firmness by 23.8% over 4 weeks of twice-daily topical application.1

Tested concentration
10.0%
Which form
Pure DL-Mandelic Acid
Population and duration
24 human subjects (20 females, 4 males, aged 42-68) applying topical mandelic acid twice daily for 4 weeks
Limitation
Open-label single-arm study on a single-center cohort of 24 subjects evaluated over a 4-week period; continuous application is required to maintain viscoelastic improvements.

Acne Lesion Reduction and Post-Acne Hyperpigmentation Clearance

Indicative

A professional 20% Salicylic / 10% Mandelic Acid combination peel achieves a 74.14% reduction in acne severity scores and a significant decline in the postacne hyperpigmentation index in Asian skin types.2,3

Tested concentration
10.0% Mandelic Acid combined with 20.0% Salicylic Acid
Which form
Pure DL-Mandelic Acid
Population and duration
45 Asian patients with mild-to-moderate acne receiving biweekly peels over 12 weeks (Sarkar 2019, PMID 31619887); corroborated by a separate 44-patient comparative trial (Garg 2008, PMID 19076192) finding the same combination peel more effective and better tolerated than a 35% glycolic acid peel for active acne and post-acne hyperpigmentation.
Limitation
Evaluated as a co-formulated chemical peel alongside 20% Salicylic Acid; the independent contribution of mandelic acid alone is not isolated in either trial.
The clinical recordHow it works · Forms · Manufacturing · Regulations · Study ledger · Gaps · Sources

How it works

  1. Corneodesmosomal Cleavage and Epidermal Desquamation

    Cleaves ionic protein bonds (corneodesmosomes) binding corneocytes in the outer stratum corneum, promoting uniform desquamation and accelerating cell turnover.

    What that rests on: in-vitro and clinical histometric studies

    Source1

  2. Tyrosinase Inhibition and Melanogenesis Suppression

    Directly inhibits tyrosinase activity in melanocytes, suppressing the catalytic conversion of tyrosine to dopaquinone and reducing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

    What that rests on: in-vitro and clinical hyperpigmentation trials

    Source2

  3. Antibacterial Action Against C. acnes

    Exerts intrinsic antimicrobial activity against Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis, reducing follicular bacterial load and preventing papulopustular acne.

    What that rests on: in-vitro microbiological assays and clinical acne trials

    Source3

Reading the label

Compare the forms
AttributePure DL-Mandelic Acid
Official INCIMANDELIC ACID
Where it comes fromSynthetic organic synthesis from benzaldehyde and hydrocyanic acid or hydrolysis of mandelonitrile
How it is madeSynthesized via cyanohydrin reaction of benzaldehyde followed by acid hydrolysis, crystallization, and pharmaceutical-grade purification to yield crystalline DL-mandelic acid powder.
GentlenessHighly tolerated by sensitive skin and Fitzpatrick skin types III-VI due to slow, uniform stratum corneum penetration.

How it is actually made

  1. Synthesized commercially via the acid-catalyzed hydrolysis of mandelonitrile (derived from benzaldehyde and sodium bisulfite/cyanide), followed by crystallization, washing, and pharmaceutical-grade purification to yield pure DL-mandelic acid powder.

What the evidence rests on

Study records

Prospective clinical trial with objective Cutometer MPA 580 measurements2018

Effects of Topical Mandelic Acid Treatment on Facial Skin Viscoelasticity

Twice-daily topical application of mandelic acid over 4 weeks produced a statistically significant 25.4% increase in lower eyelid skin elasticity (P = 0.003) and a 23.8% increase in skin firmness (P = 0.029) in 24 subjects aged 42-68, with excellent patient tolerance.

Where it falls shortOpen-label single-arm study design on 24 subjects over a 4-week period.

Source1

Randomized comparative clinical trial, 45 patients in three arms of 152019

Comparative Study of 35% Glycolic Acid, 20% Salicylic-10% Mandelic Acid, and Phytic Acid Combination Peels in the Treatment of Active Acne and Postacne Pigmentation

Biweekly peeling sessions with the 20% Salicylic-10% Mandelic acid peel over 12 weeks achieved a 74.14% reduction in acne score at week 12, with a significant decline in postacne hyperpigmentation index across all three study arms and no significant adverse effects.

Where it falls shortEvaluated as a co-formulated chemical peel alongside 20% Salicylic Acid, not mandelic acid alone; all three peel types were found effective with no significant superiority claimed for any one arm.

Source2

Randomized comparative clinical trial, 44 patients in two arms2009

Glycolic acid peels versus salicylic-mandelic acid peels in active acne vulgaris and post-acne scarring and hyperpigmentation: a comparative study

The salicylic-mandelic acid combination peel showed higher efficacy for active acne lesions and post-acne hyperpigmentation (P < .001 for both) than the glycolic acid peel, with fewer side effects.

Where it falls shortEvaluated in a clinical peel setting under physician supervision; the independent contribution of mandelic acid within the combination is not isolated.

Source3

What is still missing

Not yet researched

Research in progress — check back soon. How we verify