Hyaluronic acid replenishes stratum corneum hydration and soothes the skin during chemical exfoliation, offsetting potential AHA dryness.
Read the passport만델릭애씨드 · 전성분
Mandelic Acid
An aromatic 8-carbon Alpha Hydroxy Acid derived from bitter almonds or synthetic synthesis. Featuring a larger molecular weight (152.15 g/mol) and lipophilic aromatic ring, mandelic acid penetrates the stratum corneum slowly and uniformly, offering gentle epidermal exfoliation, anti-acne antibacterial action, and pigmentation clearance with minimal irritation risk on sensitive or dark skin tones.
- INCI
- MANDELIC ACID
Also called 2-Hydroxy-2-phenylacetic Acid · Amygdalic Acid · Phenylglycolic Acid · DL-Mandelic Acid
This ingredient page is still early. We're actively researching before it's ready to stand fully on its own — check back as more sections are verified.
The short answer
Four lines, each compressed from the section it links to. Every line carries the sources of the claim it compresses.
- What it does
Facial Skin Viscoelasticity, Firmness, and Elasticity Improvement
See the evidence - Where it goes
toner, serum, or chemical peel step · night
See how to use it - What shows, and when
4 weeks: Measurable increase in skin elasticity and firmness, and initial clearing of mild acne comedones.
Source1
See the timeline
How to use it
Where it sits in the seven-step ladder, and the record's own fields for the habit.
night
Filled steps are where Mandelic Acid commonly appears. No product is recommended.
Everything here comes from the sources below. None of it is a product recommendation.
- Time of day
- night
- Where it sits
- toner, serum, or chemical peel step
- Starting frequency
- 2-3 times per week to daily as tolerated
- Amount
- few drops of serum or a coin-sized amount of liquid toner
- Application
- Apply evenly to clean, dry skin on the face and neck in the evening routine. Pat gently to encourage uniform absorption. Always follow with a soothing moisturizer and apply broad-spectrum daily sunscreen during the morning.
- Storage
- Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and heat. Keep container tightly closed.
Plays well with / keep apart
One card per pair. Where the partner has its own passport, the name links to it.
Do layer it with
Centella asiatica downregulates pro-inflammatory cytokines and accelerates barrier repair, enhancing skin tolerance during mandelic acid exfoliation.
Read the passportSeparate it from
Simultaneous application of mandelic acid with high-strength retinoids can cause cumulative epidermal barrier stress, leading to redness, peeling, and stinging.
Alternate nights between mandelic acid and retinoids, or use mandelic acid in the morning and retinoid at night as tolerated.
What to expect, and when
The record's own timeline. Each step keeps the source of the study it came from.
- Immediate
Initial smoothing of surface skin roughness, mild tightening, and enhanced skin radiance.
- 4 weeks
Measurable increase in skin elasticity and firmness, and initial clearing of mild acne comedones.
Source1
- 12 weeks
Significant reduction in active acne lesion scores and visible fading of post-acne hyperpigmentation with a professional combination peel.
Source2
Is this safe for me
Everything the record says about suitability, consolidated. Pause-first comes first.
Before you start
Significantly gentler than glycolic acid, but can still cause mild tingling or temporary dryness if overused or paired with aggressive physical exfoliants. Daily broad-spectrum sun protection is required.
Best match
sensitive skin
acne-prone skin · hyperpigmentation · post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation · uneven skin texture · aging skin
Routine
toner, serum, or chemical peel step
Pregnancy and breastfeeding
Not medical advice · ask your own clinician
Pregnancy. A 2011 dermatology review of skin-care product safety in pregnancy names hydroquinone (high systemic absorption) and tretinoin (evidence controversial) as the actives of concern, and states that most other topical skin-care products act locally and produce minimal systemic absorption; Mandelic acid is not named among the flagged concerns 4. This is general topical-product reasoning rather than an ingredient-specific safety trial. If you are pregnant, ask your doctor before use.
Breastfeeding. Topical application is applied locally with minimal expected systemic absorption; no ingredient-specific breastfeeding safety trial was located. As a general precaution common to topical actives, avoid applying directly to the breast or nipple area, since incidental transfer to a nursing infant has not been studied for this ingredient. If you are breastfeeding, ask your doctor before use.
| Common, and it usually settles | Stop using it |
|---|---|
| A mild, temporary tingling sensation upon initial application, followed by gentle, micro-flaking over 3 to 5 days. | persistent stinging or burning |
| intense erythema (redness) | |
| allergic contact dermatitis rash | |
| blistering |
Allergen history
Research in progress — check back soon. How we verify
Who should not use it
Research in progress — check back soon. How we verify
What it will not do
- The 25.4% elasticity increase and 74% acne-score reduction demonstrated with a 10% daily cream or a professional combination peel cannot be expected from ultra-low concentration rinse-off cleansers (< 0.5%) due to minimal contact time.
- The mild, non-stinging nature of mandelic acid on Fitzpatrick skin types IV-VI does not mean it can be combined recklessly with strong retinoids without appropriate barrier recovery intervals.
- In-vitro antibacterial activity against Cutibacterium acnes does not replace oral or prescription therapy for severe nodulocystic acne.
The evidence
One card per claim. Concentration, form, population and limitation sit with it, always visible.
- Indicative
- Limited
- Moderate
- Strong
Facial Skin Viscoelasticity, Firmness, and Elasticity Improvement
IndicativeSignificantly increases lower eyelid and facial skin elasticity by 25.4% and firmness by 23.8% over 4 weeks of twice-daily topical application.1
- Tested concentration
- 10.0%
- Which form
- Pure DL-Mandelic Acid
- Population and duration
- 24 human subjects (20 females, 4 males, aged 42-68) applying topical mandelic acid twice daily for 4 weeks
- Limitation
- Open-label single-arm study on a single-center cohort of 24 subjects evaluated over a 4-week period; continuous application is required to maintain viscoelastic improvements.
Acne Lesion Reduction and Post-Acne Hyperpigmentation Clearance
IndicativeA professional 20% Salicylic / 10% Mandelic Acid combination peel achieves a 74.14% reduction in acne severity scores and a significant decline in the postacne hyperpigmentation index in Asian skin types.2,3
- Tested concentration
- 10.0% Mandelic Acid combined with 20.0% Salicylic Acid
- Which form
- Pure DL-Mandelic Acid
- Population and duration
- 45 Asian patients with mild-to-moderate acne receiving biweekly peels over 12 weeks (Sarkar 2019, PMID 31619887); corroborated by a separate 44-patient comparative trial (Garg 2008, PMID 19076192) finding the same combination peel more effective and better tolerated than a 35% glycolic acid peel for active acne and post-acne hyperpigmentation.
- Limitation
- Evaluated as a co-formulated chemical peel alongside 20% Salicylic Acid; the independent contribution of mandelic acid alone is not isolated in either trial.
The clinical recordHow it works · Forms · Manufacturing · Regulations · Study ledger · Gaps · Sources
How it works
- Corneodesmosomal Cleavage and Epidermal Desquamation
Cleaves ionic protein bonds (corneodesmosomes) binding corneocytes in the outer stratum corneum, promoting uniform desquamation and accelerating cell turnover.
What that rests on: in-vitro and clinical histometric studies
Source1
- Tyrosinase Inhibition and Melanogenesis Suppression
Directly inhibits tyrosinase activity in melanocytes, suppressing the catalytic conversion of tyrosine to dopaquinone and reducing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
What that rests on: in-vitro and clinical hyperpigmentation trials
Source2
- Antibacterial Action Against C. acnes
Exerts intrinsic antimicrobial activity against Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis, reducing follicular bacterial load and preventing papulopustular acne.
What that rests on: in-vitro microbiological assays and clinical acne trials
Source3
Reading the label
| Attribute | Pure DL-Mandelic Acid |
|---|---|
| Official INCI | MANDELIC ACID |
| Where it comes from | Synthetic organic synthesis from benzaldehyde and hydrocyanic acid or hydrolysis of mandelonitrile |
| How it is made | Synthesized via cyanohydrin reaction of benzaldehyde followed by acid hydrolysis, crystallization, and pharmaceutical-grade purification to yield crystalline DL-mandelic acid powder. |
| Gentleness | Highly tolerated by sensitive skin and Fitzpatrick skin types III-VI due to slow, uniform stratum corneum penetration. |
How it is actually made
- Synthesized commercially via the acid-catalyzed hydrolysis of mandelonitrile (derived from benzaldehyde and sodium bisulfite/cyanide), followed by crystallization, washing, and pharmaceutical-grade purification to yield pure DL-mandelic acid powder.
What the evidence rests on
Study records
Effects of Topical Mandelic Acid Treatment on Facial Skin Viscoelasticity
Twice-daily topical application of mandelic acid over 4 weeks produced a statistically significant 25.4% increase in lower eyelid skin elasticity (P = 0.003) and a 23.8% increase in skin firmness (P = 0.029) in 24 subjects aged 42-68, with excellent patient tolerance.
Where it falls shortOpen-label single-arm study design on 24 subjects over a 4-week period.
Source1
Comparative Study of 35% Glycolic Acid, 20% Salicylic-10% Mandelic Acid, and Phytic Acid Combination Peels in the Treatment of Active Acne and Postacne Pigmentation
Biweekly peeling sessions with the 20% Salicylic-10% Mandelic acid peel over 12 weeks achieved a 74.14% reduction in acne score at week 12, with a significant decline in postacne hyperpigmentation index across all three study arms and no significant adverse effects.
Where it falls shortEvaluated as a co-formulated chemical peel alongside 20% Salicylic Acid, not mandelic acid alone; all three peel types were found effective with no significant superiority claimed for any one arm.
Source2
Glycolic acid peels versus salicylic-mandelic acid peels in active acne vulgaris and post-acne scarring and hyperpigmentation: a comparative study
The salicylic-mandelic acid combination peel showed higher efficacy for active acne lesions and post-acne hyperpigmentation (P < .001 for both) than the glycolic acid peel, with fewer side effects.
Where it falls shortEvaluated in a clinical peel setting under physician supervision; the independent contribution of mandelic acid within the combination is not isolated.
Source3
What is still missing
Research in progress — check back soon. How we verify