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아젤라익애씨드 · 전성분

Azelaic Acid

A naturally occurring 9-carbon dicarboxylic acid that selectively targets hyperactive melanocytes, reduces Cutibacterium acnes bacterial load, normalizes follicular keratinization, and suppresses inflammatory kallikrein-5 / cathelicidin pathways to clear acne, rosacea, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

GentlenessGentlefour of fiveEvidenceIndicativeTopical
INCI
AZELAIC ACID

Also called AZA · 1,7-Heptanedicarboxylic Acid · Nonanedioic Acid

Early-stage page

This ingredient page is still early. We're actively researching before it's ready to stand fully on its own — check back as more sections are verified.

The short answer

Four lines, each compressed from the section it links to. Every line carries the sources of the claim it compresses.

  • What it does

    Inflammatory Acne and Papulopustular Rosacea Clearance

    Topical

    Sources1,2

    See the evidence
  • Where it goes

    serum or moisturizer step · day and night

    See how to use it
  • What shows, and when

    4 weeks: Noticeable reduction in inflammatory acne papules, decreased rosacea facial redness, and initial brightening of dark marks.

    Source1

    See the timeline

How to use it

Where it sits in the seven-step ladder, and the record's own fields for the habit.

아침DayDay: used
저녁NightNight: used

day and night

Cleanser클렌저
Toner토너
Essence에센스
Serum세럼 sits here
Eye cream아이크림
Moisturizer크림 sits here
Sunscreen자외선차단제

Filled steps are where Azelaic Acid commonly appears. No product is recommended.

Everything here comes from the sources below. None of it is a product recommendation.

Time of day
day and night
Where it sits
serum or moisturizer step
Starting frequency
daily
Amount
pea-sized amount for the entire face
Application
Apply a thin layer to clean, dry skin after cleansing and hydrating serums. Gently pat until absorbed. Follow with moisturizer and daytime sunscreen.
Storage
Store at room temperature away from direct light and excessive heat. Keep container tightly closed.

Plays well with / keep apart

One card per pair. Where the partner has its own passport, the name links to it.

Do layer it with

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)

Synergistically reduces redness, clears breakouts, and fades dark spots while strengthening the skin barrier against initial active tingling.

Read the passport
Salicylic Acid (BHA)

Combines Salicylic Acid's oil-soluble pore de-clogging with Azelaic Acid's anti-bacterial and anti-tyrosinase action for comprehensive acne and post-acne mark clearance.

Source1

What to expect, and when

The record's own timeline. Each step keeps the source of the study it came from.

  1. Immediate

    Initial reduction in skin surface oiliness and mild soothing of active blemish discomfort.

  2. 4 weeks

    Noticeable reduction in inflammatory acne papules, decreased rosacea facial redness, and initial brightening of dark marks.

    Source1

  3. 12 to 16 weeks

    Significant clearance of stubborn acne lesions, sustained suppression of rosacea erythema, and marked fading of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

    Source3

Is this safe for me

Everything the record says about suitability, consolidated. Pause-first comes first.

Before you start

Generally well tolerated across all Fitzpatrick skin types, though mild, transient tingling, itching, or superficial scaling may occur during the first 1-2 weeks of onboarding.

Best match

acne-prone skin

rosacea-prone skin · hyperpigmentation and melasma · post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation · sensitive skin

Routine

serum or moisturizer step

Pregnancy and breastfeeding

Not medical advice · ask your own clinician

Pregnancy. Per a systematic review of azelaic acid's clinical applications, it is FDA Pregnancy Category B and is widely considered by dermatologists to be one of the safest and most effective topical treatments for acne, rosacea, and melasma during pregnancy and breastfeeding 1.

Breastfeeding. Topical application is applied locally with minimal expected systemic absorption; no ingredient-specific breastfeeding safety trial was located. As a general precaution common to topical actives, avoid applying directly to the breast or nipple area, since incidental transfer to a nursing infant has not been studied for this ingredient. If you are breastfeeding, ask your doctor before use.

Expected versus unacceptable reactions
Common, and it usually settlesStop using it
A slight, brief tingling or prickling sensation immediately after application during initial use, which subsides as the skin adapts.severe burning sensation
persistent intense redness
allergic hives or facial swelling

Allergen history

Not yet researched

Research in progress — check back soon. How we verify

Who should not use it

Not yet researched

Research in progress — check back soon. How we verify

What it will not do

  • The 15% to 20% clinical acne, rosacea, and melasma clearance demonstrated with leave-on topical gels cannot be expected from quick-rinse foaming cleansers due to minimal contact time.
  • The selective inhibition of hyperactive melanocytes by Azelaic Acid does not alter normal baseline melanin production or lighten unaffected surrounding skin.
  • The anti-inflammatory kallikrein-5 suppression achieved by topical Azelaic Acid does not permanently eliminate underlying genetic rosacea vascular hyperreactivity.

The evidence

One card per claim. Concentration, form, population and limitation sit with it, always visible.

Grade legend
  • Indicative
  • Limited
  • Moderate
  • Strong

Inflammatory Acne and Papulopustular Rosacea Clearance

Indicative

Reduces inflammatory papules, pustules, and facial erythema while suppressing Cutibacterium acnes bacterial proliferation and normalizing follicular keratinization; FDA-approved for treating papulopustular rosacea.1,2

Tested concentration
10.0% to 20.0%
Which form
Micronized Pure Azelaic Acid
Population and duration
Synthesized across randomized controlled trials in acne vulgaris and papulopustular rosacea, per two independent systematic reviews
Limitation
Reviews synthesize data across diverse trial designs and vehicle formulations rather than reporting a single trial's own population.

Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation and Acne Reduction in Darker Skin

Indicative

Twice-daily application of 15% azelaic acid gel over 16 weeks significantly reduced both acne lesion counts and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation intensity in patients with Fitzpatrick IV-VI skin, with high patient satisfaction and safety.3

Tested concentration
15.0%
Which form
Micronized Pure Azelaic Acid
Population and duration
Patients with darker skin tones (Fitzpatrick IV-VI) and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation applying 15% azelaic acid gel twice daily for 16 weeks
Limitation
Baseline-controlled single-arm pilot trial design; pigment clearance is a gradual multi-month process requiring concurrent daily broad-spectrum sun protection.

Inhibition of Inflammatory Kallikrein-5 and Cathelicidin Pathways

Indicative

Downregulates serine protease kallikrein-5 (KLK5) and cathelicidin (LL-37) gene expression, curbing vascular reactivity and rosacea-associated facial redness.2,4

Tested concentration
15.0%
Which form
Micronized Pure Azelaic Acid
Population and duration
Review of expert consensus and clinical trials in rosacea patients treated topically
Limitation
The KLK5/cathelicidin-specific mechanism source (a 2017 review PDF) could not be text-extracted this cycle to independently confirm; the co-cited systematic review (S002) corroborates azelaic acid's general anti-inflammatory action but does not name KLK5/cathelicidin specifically.
The clinical recordHow it works · Forms · Manufacturing · Regulations · Study ledger · Gaps · Sources

How it works

  1. Anti-Tyrosinase and Melanocyte Inhibition

    Competitively inhibits tyrosinase and mitochondrial respiratory chain enzymes, selectively damaging abnormal, hyperactive melanocytes without affecting normal skin cells.

    What that rests on: systematic review of in-vitro and clinical evidence

    Source2

  2. Antimicrobial Membrane Disruption

    Inhibits intracellular protein synthesis and alters internal pH in Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis, exerting bactericidal effects without inducing resistance.

    What that rests on: systematic review of in-vitro bacterial assays

    Source1

  3. Inhibition of KLK5 and Cathelicidin Inflammatory Cascade

    Suppresses serine protease kallikrein-5 (KLK5) activity, blocking the processing of inactive precursor protein into vasoactive cathelicidin peptide LL-37 to reduce rosacea redness.

    What that rests on: clinical evidence review

    Source4

Reading the label

Compare the forms
AttributeMicronized Pure Azelaic Acid
What it isThe standard high-purity crystalline dicarboxylic acid active used in topical creams, gels, and serums.
Official INCIAZELAIC ACID
Where it comes fromOzonolysis or oxidation of oleic acid derived from vegetable oil feedstocks
How it is madeSynthesized via oxidation of oleic acid, followed by crystallization, purification, and micro-milling to achieve a micronized particle size for optimal suspension and skin bio-dispersion.

How it is actually made

  1. Produced industrially via the chemical oxidation or ozonolysis of oleic acid obtained from natural vegetable oils (such as sunflower, rapeseed, or castor oil), followed by crystallization, washing, micro-milling, and purification to obtain fine micronized powder.

Where the ceiling is set

United States

The rule
FDA drug approval status (per a 2024 systematic review)
What it allows
FDA-approved for treating papulopustular rosacea, per a peer-reviewed systematic review's own statement.

Source1

What the evidence rests on

Study records

Systematic scientific literature review2024

Azelaic Acid: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications

AZA is FDA-approved for treating papulopustular rosacea and shows significant efficacy in acne vulgaris and melasma, with antibacterial, anti-keratinizing, antimelanogenic, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.

Where it falls shortSynthesizes data across diverse clinical trial designs and vehicle formulations.

Source1

What is still missing

Not yet researched

Research in progress — check back soon. How we verify